Standing outside a Lawson at 8am with an onigiri and hot lemon tea, watching the salarymen rush to work while I’m on vacation time. That’s my happy place. In April 2025, once again, I dragged my partner to Japan to go see the cherry blossoms. At this point we’re not chasing Michelin stars or Instagram-worthy experiences. We’re more focused on reconnecting with friends and revisiting our favorite comfort food spots. We didn’t have any sushi, but we did go to Coco Ichibanya three times.
We saw a wrestling match, I got called an “APA master”, got destroyed by allergies in Kyushu, and met up with React Native developers in Tokyo. ChatGPT turned out to be surprisingly useful for reading medicine labels and menu descriptions. We took an overnight ferry from Osaka, and drove through Kyushu’s mountain roads from Beppu to Kumamoto. It was a great trip, and I want to use it as an opportunity to share our experience and how we navigate Japan.
ChatGPT for International Travel
First I want to talk about how impactful ChatGPT was to our travel experience. We can speak and read some Japanese, but we’re not 100% fluent. Being able to snap photos of products, signs, or documents and get instant translations helped us notice things that usually escape our attention.
ChatGPT’s vision capabilities transformed how we handled Japanese text during our trip. Unlike basic translation tools, it could analyze entire images and provide meaningful context. At pharmacies, we could actually understand medicine ingredients instead of just going by the pictures. In bookstores, we got instant summaries of entire shelves without judging books just by their covers. At stores, we could read product descriptions that would have been too time-consuming to translate manually.
The interactive nature made it even better. We could ask follow-up questions about anything we saw and get additional context about unfamiliar products. This removed a lot of friction points that typically come with navigating Japan, even for somewhat experienced travelers like us.
Make Yourself Beautiful Weather Reports
ChatGPT helped me track weather across our stops in Japan without juggling multiple apps. I asked it for forecasts for Tokyo, Osaka, Beppu, and Kumamoto all at once, with temperatures in Fahrenheit.
The initial report came as a table, but I could ask ChatGPT to reshape the data different ways. Its image generation turned the weather data into shareable infographics showing temperatures, conditions, and timing for each city.
A quick tip: Include city emojis in your prompt. The text reports work great, though image generation can be hit or miss. Just grab the weather data and request an infographic (you might need a couple attempts, but it’s worth it).
Give me a weather forecast for the following cities and dates, written in a format I can send in a text or whatsapp message. Please include: - Daily high and low temperatures in Fahrenheit - Chance of rain - General vibe/conditions (e.g., sunny, cloudy, breezy) - Relevant weather emojis (like ☀️🌧️🌸) - Emojis for the city (like 🗼) - write the output in a markdown codeblock Dates and locations: - Tokyo (April 5–7) - Osaka (April 8–9) - Beppu (April 10–11) - Kumamoto (April 11–12)
And here’s a prompt for creating a beautiful infographic of the weather forecast for these Japanese cities. You can copy and paste the weather report from the first prompt and append it to this prompt:
Create a beautiful infographic of the weather forecast for these Japanese cities. Include: - City names with their emojis (🗼 for Tokyo, etc.) - Daily high and low temperatures in Fahrenheit - Chance of rain - General conditions (sunny, cloudy, etc.) - Relevant weather emojis - A clean, modern design that's easy to read 🌸 **Japan Spring Weather Forecast (April 5–12, 2025)** --- 🇯🇵 **Tokyo 🗼** - **April 5**: 🌤️ High 60°F / Low 46°F — Partly cloudy, light breeze - **April 6**: 🌦️ High 61°F / Low 48°F — Chance of light rain (~25%) - **April 7**: ☀️ High 63°F / Low 47°F — Mostly sunny, mild _Cherry blossoms in full bloom! 🌸_ --- 🇯🇵 **Osaka 🏯** - **April 8**: 🌦️ High 66°F / Low 51°F — Light rain possible (~30%) - **April 9**: ⛅ High 65°F / Low 50°F — Partly cloudy, warming up _Spring vibes with occasional showers 🌸_ --- 🇯🇵 **Beppu ♨️** - **April 10**: 🌦️ High 66°F / Low 49°F — Light rain (~40%), humid - **April 11**: ⛅ High 65°F / Low 49°F — Partly cloudy, calm _Perfect for hot springs with mild spring weather 🌸_ --- 🇯🇵 **Kumamoto 🏯** - **April 11**: 🌦️ High 65°F / Low 51°F — Light rain (~35%), breezy - **April 12**: ⛅ High 64°F / Low 51°F — Partly cloudy, mild _Comfortable spring days with a chance of showers 🌸_ --- 🧳 **Travel Tips**: - Pack a light jacket and umbrella ☂️ - Enjoy the cherry blossoms and spring festivals 🌸🎎 - Stay hydrated and check local forecasts daily 📱 Safe travels and enjoy the beautiful Japanese spring! 🇯🇵🌸
The April 2025 model sometimes cuts off text or renders things oddly when there’s a lot of information in the forecast. Expect to regenerate once or twice. Worth it for the ability to go from text forecast to shareable infographic in the same conversation.
Here’s an example of the chat and the infographic it generated:
Creative Image Generation
The timing of our trip coincided perfectly with OpenAI’s release of advanced image generation features in ChatGPT. This opened up new creative possibilities, like transforming ordinary photos into anime-style images. What made this particularly exciting was that ChatGPT could now understand the content of our photos and create faithful representations in different styles. This capability has become popular for creating Ghibli-style or anime interpretations of real-world scenes, and we found ourselves using it extensively during our trip.
We’d stop mid-walk to photograph a vending machine or a narrow alley, just to see what ChatGPT would do with it. Everyday scenes like crosswalks became more interesting and artistic, and the AI faithfully reproduced brand logos and storefronts. It even encouraged me to take photos of scenes I wouldn’t normally capture. To be honest, this feature captured a lot of our attention during the trip.
In case you haven’t tried making anime images of you and your loved ones, here’s what you can try. Make sure you also upload the image you want to stylize with your prompt. I found that just saying “make it anime” wasn’t enough. Sometimes I would get an image that was a little bit too dark or had other issues. Throughout my experimentation, I eventually ended up with a prompt that looks something like this:
Make this image into an anime-style illustration. Use crisp, clear lines and bright colors. Make me an Anime-style illustration in a clean and crisp art style. Use natural, even lighting with soft shadows. Avoid foggy, faded, or overly dark tones. The colors should be vibrant but not overly saturated. Overall, the image should feel clear, sharp, and well-lit, with good contrast and detail.
Here are some examples of the anime-style transformations ChatGPT created from our photos:
The AI was particularly good at capturing the essence of Japanese urban scenes, from convenience stores to back alleys:
We also used it to create personalized stamps to commemorate special moments, like getting a gacha prize or discovering unique manhole covers. Japan’s unique manhole covers became a source of inspiration, and we created custom designs based on our experiences. These new features added a fun, creative dimension to our trip documentation and helped us capture memories in unique ways.
One interesting discovery was that ChatGPT can now generate transparent PNGs. Previously, it would always return images with filled-in backgrounds, but now you can explicitly ask for a transparent background. While it’s still a bit unreliable, with enough tries you can get it to work correctly. This was particularly useful for creating stamps and manhole covers that could be used as stickers or overlays.
Here’s a sample prompt you can use to create a Japanese-style manhole cover:
Create a Japanese-style manhole cover design featuring cherry blossoms. The design should: - Be circular with a traditional Japanese aesthetic - Feature sakura (cherry blossom) motifs - Include some Japanese text or characters - Have a transparent background (PNG format) - Use a color scheme that would work well for a real manhole cover - Maintain the functional look of a real manhole while being artistic The design should be suitable for use as a sticker or overlay, so please ensure the background is transparent.
Here are some examples of the stamps and manhole covers we created:
Internet Connectivity in Japan
We travel frequently, so a few years ago we switched to Google Fi for its reliable international connectivity. It’s become our preferred service, and we haven’t considered alternatives since making the switch. One of its best features is automatic network connection when landing in a new country - we typically have internet access by the time the plane taxis to the gate. However, traveling means we use our phones more than usual, taking photos and staying connected, which leads to higher data usage. Google Fi slows down after reaching certain data limits, and while you can purchase more data, we decided to try an eSIM app this trip to supplement our connectivity.
Many travelers to Japan typically rent pocket WiFi devices or purchase physical SIM cards at the airport, where large shops offer these services. While these options work, they require additional devices or physical cards, and you need to pick them up and return them. Airalo, an eSIM application, is a much more convenient option because you can handle everything directly from your phone.
Airalo offers a free trial of 1GB of data, which convinced me to purchase their service. I started with a 5GB package for $11.50, and after using that in a few days, I upgraded to a 10GB package for $18. In total, I spent $29.50 for 15GB of data. With the Google Fi Flexible plan, you pay $10 per gigabyte up to 6GB, after which it’s free up to 15GB. On top of the $20 base cost, this would mean $60 for 15GB of data. Airalo’s $29.50 for 15GB of data was actually cheaper in this case. The app provides clear data usage tracking and makes topping up straightforward.
I recommend trying Airalo if you don’t have a global plan and your phone supports eSIM. We used it for three weeks in Japan and the connection was reliable in Tokyo and Kyoto, though it got spotty in rural Kyushu. The app handles the setup process, which eliminates the need for pocket WiFi devices or physical SIM cards.
Cherry Blossom Season
The Japan Meteorological Agency publishes an annual cherry blossom forecast, and from reading about it, it seems like something you should worry about. Like you have to perfectly time your trip to catch the blossoms at their peak. In reality, being in Japan during the last few days of March and the first couple of weeks in April has always worked for me. I’ve been five times during that window and never missed them.
Cherry blossoms bloom at slightly different times depending on the region. If you’re moving around the country and not just staying in Tokyo, you’ll catch them somewhere. Famous parks are spectacular, but it’s also lovely to stumble on blossoms in quiet neighborhoods that make the area look a little bit more pretty.
Nakameguro
Nakameguro Station drops you right at the prettiest part of the river. Cherry trees line both sides of the canal for about 4 kilometers. We walked it twice, once at 2pm and again after dark when they turn the lights on at 5pm.
I’ve been to Nakameguro a few times throughout the years, but it took on more significance for me after watching the Ivan Orkin episode of Chef’s Table. Ivan Orkin, the New York-born chef behind Ivan Ramen, has an impressive story because he was able to move to Japan, become very fluent in Japanese, and become one of the ramen gods over there. That’s a really nice goal to achieve, and his episode made a huge impact on me. In particular, that Netflix episode shows a lot of shots of him walking around in Nakameguro. If you want to get a good idea of what Nakameguro is like, I highly recommend watching that episode. It’s a really delightful episode that captures the essence of the neighborhood beautifully.
During the day, you’ll find beautiful natural lighting that’s great for photos, though it tends to be more crowded. At night, the cherry blossoms are illuminated from 5 PM to 8 PM during the festival, creating a magical atmosphere and offering a different perspective on the same scenery. The illuminated sakura reflected in the river creates a stunning, dreamlike scene worth seeing both day and night.
Ueno
Ueno Park is Tokyo’s most famous cherry blossom spot. But that’s also the problem. It’s packed during sakura season. If you want the full festival experience with food stalls and crowds doing hanami picnics, this is where you go.
The park offers a complete experience with long walking paths lined with cherry trees, food stands offering Japanese street food, and several shrines within the park. The festival runs from late March to early April and features music, parade events, and approximately 800 lanterns that illuminate the park. It’s particularly good for group outings and o-hanami picnics, making it perfect for those who want to combine sakura viewing with other activities or enjoy a more social atmosphere.
Food and Drink
Horoyoi Momo: My Happy Drink
Horoyoi Momo is my favorite Japanese drink. I loooove this stuff. It’s a peach-flavored chuhai (shochu highball) made by Suntory that tastes like slightly fizzy peach juice with 3% alcohol. You can drink three on a train ride and feel pleasantly tipsy, not destroyed. The name “Horoyoi” (ほろ酔い) means “slightly tipsy” or “pleasantly drunk,” which is exactly what it does.
This time around, I noticed that there are limited edition seasonal can designs, particularly the sakura-themed cans available during spring. We found it widely available in convenience stores and supermarkets throughout our trip, making it a convenient choice for relaxing after a day of exploring.
Restaurants and Cafes
Having visited Japan numerous times, we’ve developed a pattern of sticking to our comfort foods and familiar chains. While we occasionally try new stand-alone restaurants for special occasions, we often find ourselves returning to reliable chain restaurants that we know and love. While these might not be the most adventurous choices, they are very appealing to us because of their quality. Restaurants that might seem pretty basic because they’re chains are actually really good in Japan, making them a familiar comfort that we can rely on. In this section, we’ll share some of these familiar spots that have become our go-to places during our trips.
Starbucks: A Surprisingly Good Rest Stop
While we usually try to avoid American chains when traveling, Starbucks in Japan has become a familiar comfort that’s easy to find and significantly different from its US counterpart. The Japanese locations offer a much wider variety of food options with a higher standard of quality, which is typical of food establishments in Japan.
The drinks and pastries are consistently good, and the comfortable seating and atmosphere make it a perfect place to take breaks between activities. We found ourselves using Starbucks more frequently than in previous trips, appreciating it as a reliable spot to rest and plan our next steps during long days of walking.
TsuruTonTan
We were familiar with TsuruTonTan from its Boston location in Kenmore Square, which opened in January 2020. We never went to the Boston location because it had mixed reviews, and as I wrote this blog post I found out that it permanently closed. However, we were willing to try it in Tokyo because things are generally better in Tokyo, and this wasn’t an exception.
The Ginza location, situated on the 10th floor of Tokyu Plaza, offered a sleek, stylish interior with panoramic views of the city. The portion sizes were enormous - even the standard portion was quite substantial. We ended up sharing our dishes as we weren’t extremely hungry.
The ambiance was upscale yet welcoming, making it suitable for both casual lunches and special occasions. TsuruTonTan provided a memorable dining experience that celebrated the versatility of udon noodles.
restaurant TsuruTonTan UDON NOODLE Brasserie GINZA
Coco Ichibanya
Coco Ichibanya became our go-to for Japanese-style curry, which is hard to find in the US. My favorite dish is the beef curry with Pari Pari chicken. I always make sure to get the beef curry rather than the regular one. While there are other curry chains in Japan, Coco Ichibanya has become our comfort food, and we actively seek it out during our trips. It’s one of the things we look forward to when visiting Japan.
The tablet-based ordering system made it easy for us as non-Japanese speakers, and we appreciated the consistent quality across locations. It became our comfort food choice when we weren’t feeling particularly adventurous or when we needed a break from trying new places.
Torikizoku
Torikizoku offered us the izakaya experience without the stress. The traditional atmosphere with comfortable booth seating and standard yakitori options made it perfect for when we were tired and hungry. It became our reliable choice when we didn’t want to think too much about ordering and just wanted to enjoy some good yakitori.
Taketora
Taketora is a ramen restaurant that has become one of my favorites in Tokyo. They have several locations, but I usually visit the one in Kabukicho. I loooove their tsukemen. The noodles are thick and chewy, and they stay firm even after sitting in the hot broth for a few minutes. The dipping sauce is pork and fish based, rich enough that you only need a shallow bowl.
restaurant Taketora (たけとら)
Menya Gojo Shimbashi
We discovered Menya Gojo Shimbashi on the last day of our Japan trip. We were staying close to Shimbashi station and were walking around the basement floor of the station area. One of the great things about Japan is that you can walk into almost any restaurant and expect good food, and this was no exception. We came across this tsukemen restaurant, and since I was in the mood for tsukemen, we decided to try it.
The tsukemen was excellent - they used a combination of fish and pork broth that I really enjoyed. It was so good that I’m planning to visit again next time I’m in the Shimbashi area.
restaurant Menya Gojo Shimbashi (麺屋 五常 新橋店)
Things We Did in Tokyo
Tokyo Kabukicho Tower: A Surprisingly Fun Tourist Trap
We visited Tokyo Kabukicho Tower, which opened in April 2023, and it turned out to be one of the more entertaining stops of our trip. Located in the heart of Shinjuku’s red-light district, this 48-story high-rise is billed as an entertainment complex—with everything from theaters and arcades to a hotel, wellness spaces, and a food court. It’s the tallest hotel and entertainment facility in Japan, and you really can’t miss it—it’s bold, flashy, and unmistakably built for maximum impact.
The over-the-top design with giant digital screens, LED lights, and loud music greeted us at every corner. The food court featured a mix of Japanese and international food—from ramen to Korean fried chicken to burgers. The complex included movie theaters, a concert venue, arcades, and themed entertainment zones, clearly aimed at tourists and younger domestic travelers looking for flashy photo ops and convenience.
While it absolutely felt like a tourist trap, it had a kind of charming, unapologetic way about it. Everything was colorful, loud, and curated for entertainment—but also surprisingly clean and well-managed. If you’re in the mood for a “tacky Japan” experience (and honestly, there’s no shame in that), Tokyo Kabukicho Tower delivers. It became a good place for us to grab a snack between stops, people-watch, and embrace a more playful, exaggerated version of Tokyo.
We wouldn’t plan our whole day around it, but since we were already in Shinjuku, it was worth walking through and soaking in the chaotic fun.
restaurant Tokyu Kabukicho Tower
Ginza Hands (Formerly Tokyo Hands)
One of my favorite discoveries this trip was the travel section at HANDS (formerly Tokyo Hands, rebranded in March 2022 after acquisition by CAINZ Corporation). The store offered an extensive collection of high-quality travel bags, with a much better selection than what’s typically available online. It was particularly impressive because it’s hard to find comparable options in many US cities, including Boston.
What made it special for me was the ability to physically compare different bags, something that’s invaluable when making a purchase. The selection included both practical and stylish options, with quality that’s hard to find elsewhere. I was particularly impressed with their selection this time and found myself tempted to purchase a new travel bag despite already having one. For anyone planning a trip to Tokyo and in need of new luggage, HANDS should be at the top of your shopping list.
restaurant HANDS Ginza
Azabudai Hills
One of the newer developments in Tokyo, Azabudai Hills (opened November 24, 2023), was a bit of a disappointment for us. The complex features Mori JP Tower, the tallest building in Japan at 330 meters, along with modern architectural elements, high-end luxury retail, residences, and cultural spaces. There’s also a TeamLab exhibition that requires advance tickets.
We found the stores to be too high-end and not particularly interesting, making the shopping experience feel somewhat generic and disconnected from the typical Tokyo shopping experience. While the architecture was impressive, it wasn’t enough to justify a special visit. In hindsight, we realized we should have checked out the Mori JP Tower’s observation deck or other attractions, as that might have offered a better perspective on the development.
Note: We didn’t actually visit the Mori JP Tower, which might have changed our overall impression. The tower might have offered a better perspective on the development and could have provided a more complete experience of the area.
restaurant Azabudai Hills
Getting Glasses in Tokyo
One of the unique experiences I tried this trip was getting new glasses in Tokyo. I visited JINS at Loft, where the process was much faster than in the US. The quick eye exam process was handled efficiently, and English-speaking staff were available to assist. The store offered a wide selection of stylish frames, with same-day service available for basic lenses (typically ready in 30-60 minutes).
I learned that while basic lenses can be ready the same day, coated or custom lenses may require up to a week. This made me realize it’s best to get this done early in your trip if you want special features, especially if you’re planning to return to Tokyo later in your trip.
This was a surprisingly convenient and enjoyable experience, offering a service that’s hard to find in the US with the same speed and efficiency.
L’Aqua: A Perfect Rainy Day Escape
Located near Tokyo Dome, Spa LaQua (L’Aqua) became our perfect solution for rainy days in Tokyo. This multi-floor spa complex is open 22 hours a day and features a large, multi-floor spa facility with indoor/outdoor baths, saunas, and relaxation areas, offering a full-service spa experience.
We found it to be an excellent way to spend a rainy day, requiring no intense planning and providing a perfect break from sightseeing. The variety of facilities made it great for relaxing after work or travel, and we appreciated having this option when we needed a break from our usual Tokyo routine. It became our go-to place to recharge during the trip, especially when the weather wasn’t cooperating with our outdoor plans.
restaurant Spa LaQua
Connecting with the React Native Community in Tokyo
One of the highlights of this trip was having the opportunity to connect with fellow developers in Tokyo. As someone who frequently travels to Japan, I’ve always believed in the value of meeting local developers and building professional connections wherever I go. This time, I was fortunate to attend a React Native meetup and meet some wonderful people in the community.
I had the pleasure of meeting with the organizer of the React Native meetup, who shared insights about the local tech scene and how the community has been growing in Tokyo. I also got to meet Jamie Burch, someone I had previously connected with on Blue Sky. We had fascinating discussions about Japanese tokenization and various technical topics that we had been discussing online.
These connections made the trip more meaningful and reminded me of the importance of reaching out to local professional communities when traveling. One of my biggest regrets from past trips has been not making more of an effort to meet new people and build connections in the places I visit. This time, I’m happy to say I left Tokyo with new professional relationships and a deeper appreciation for the local tech community.
If you’re a developer traveling to Japan (or anywhere, really), I highly recommend:
- Looking up local meetups or tech events happening during your visit
- Reaching out to people you’ve connected with online
- Being open to meeting new people in your professional community
The connections you make can lead to valuable insights about the local tech scene, potential collaborations, and even lasting friendships. It’s a great way to enrich your travel experience beyond the typical tourist activities.
Day Trip to Chiba: Mount Nokogiri
Our friends Jimmy and Asako picked us up from our hotel in Shinjuku for a day trip to Mount Nokogiri in Chiba. I love ferries, so I was excited when they told me we’d be taking the Tokyo Wan Ferry from Kurihama to Kanaya Port. What I liked about the ferry was how we could drive our car right onto it. After the crossing, we just drove off and kept going. It was pretty cool.
The ferry route from Kurihama to Kanaya Port has some interesting history. At Kurihama, I noticed a commemorative stamp featuring Commodore Matthew C. Perry of the U.S. Navy. This guy played a big role in Japanese history - in July 1853, he steamed his “Black Ships” into Edo Bay and came ashore at Kurihama on July 14th to deliver President Fillmore’s letter demanding that Japan open its ports to American trade. His landing at Kurihama Port marked the beginning of the end of Japan’s sakoku (isolation) period, which is why the port still honors him with a commemorative stamp.
Once we got to Chiba, we made our way to Mount Nokogiri, which means “Saw Mountain” because of how it looks. The mountain has this huge Buddha called Nihon-ji Daibutsu. The Buddha was carved right into the mountain between 1780 and 1783. It’s 31 meters tall, which makes it the biggest stone Buddha from before modern times in Japan.
The Buddha, known as Yakushi Nyorai (the “Medicine Buddha”), was commissioned during the Edo period to pray for world peace. It’s really big and they carved it right into the mountain, which makes it pretty cool to see. The mix of nature and the carved Buddha gives the place a nice feel.
The journey to the top of Mount Nokogiri offers great views of Tokyo Bay and the surrounding area. The mountain itself has a rich history as a former quarry site, and the remnants of this industrial past add an interesting layer to the natural and spiritual aspects of the location.
It was nice to get out of Tokyo for a day and see something different. Japan makes it easy to go from the city to nature pretty quickly. Mount Nokogiri was one of the best parts of our trip. The history, the views, and the Buddha all made it worth the visit.
Making Our Way to Kyushu
One of the things we try to do on our Japan trips is venture outside of Tokyo to experience something new. While we typically end up in Kansai, this time I wanted to explore Kyushu more deeply. We had been to Beppu before and really enjoyed it, and Fukuoka has always been a favorite, but I had heard so many great things about traveling through Kyushu that I wanted to experience it for ourselves. We planned to visit Kyushu in the middle of our Japan trip, breaking up our time in Tokyo.
To get to Kyushu from Tokyo, we took a day and night journey that started with the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Osaka, followed by an overnight ferry from Osaka to Beppu. It was a pretty interesting journey, and below are the details of how we got to Kyushu, how we managed our logistics, and what we experienced when we were there.
Making Use of the TA-Q-BIN Service
We were splitting the trip between Tokyo and Kyushu, and I didn’t want to drag a suitcase on the overnight ferry. TA-Q-BIN (宅急便, pronounced takkyūbin) is Japan’s version of FedEx, but faster and everywhere. You’ll recognize it by the black cat logo on the trucks. The term 宅急便 combines:
- 宅 (taku) = home
- 急 (kyū) = urgent
- 便 (bin) = delivery or service
I shipped my suitcase from our Tokyo hotel to our next Tokyo hotel on Monday before heading to Kyushu, specifying Friday delivery. By the time we returned to Tokyo, my luggage was already waiting at the hotel. We explored Kyushu with just day bags.
To use the service, you’ll need to fill out a form with your information and the destination address. Many hotels already have pre-filled forms with their address as the origin, making the process even easier. The hotel concierge can help you with the form and ensure everything is filled out correctly. Since this service is so popular in Japan, most hotels are very familiar with the process and can guide you through it.
Taking the Shinkansen to Osaka
Buy Shinkansen tickets through SmartEX, the official English-friendly website and app for booking Shinkansen tickets on the Tokaido, Sanyo, and Kyushu lines. You can assign your Shinkansen ticket directly to your IC card by scanning it or entering the card number manually. We did this for our Osaka trip, and it was soooo convenient - we just tapped through the gates with our Suica cards. No ticket machines, no lines at the JR office.
I had a small travel snafu when booking our tickets. I accidentally booked from Tokyo Station when we actually needed to depart from Shinagawa. I was initially worried and headed to the JR office, but while on my way, I discovered that it’s really easy to change tickets through the SmartEX website. When I accidentally booked from Tokyo Station instead of Shinagawa, changing it on the website took about two minutes. The modification process was straightforward and saved me a trip to the ticket office.
In our case, we were only taking the Shinkansen once, so it didn’t make sense for us to get the JR Pass. For travelers with similar itineraries, SmartEX is user-friendly and makes modifications easy if your plans change.
Taking the Overnight Ferry from Osaka to Beppu
We took the Sunflower Murasaki overnight ferry from Osaka to Beppu, which required us to first take the Shinkansen from Tokyo to Osaka. The ferry’s schedule had us departing at 7:00 PM from Osaka and arriving at 6:55 AM in Beppu, with check-in required 60 minutes before departure and boarding beginning at check-in time.
Sunflower Murasaki Ferry Experience
We chose a semi-suite room, which was comfortable and spacious, perfect for overnight travel. The ticket price for the deluxe/semi-suite rooms started from ¥50,680 for two passengers, which included the semi-suite room accommodation and access to the special lounge and amenities.
The ferry featured an onsen (public bath) onboard, comfortable private rooms, and a special lounge for semi-sweet/sweet ticket holders with complimentary ice cream. There was also an ofuro (private bath) available. We noticed that the ferry was primarily used by older Japanese travelers.
The timing being overnight meant we didn’t get to enjoy the views as much as we would have liked. The early arrival in Beppu at 6:55 AM required us to plan ahead for early morning activities and have our hotel or car rental arrangements ready. The limited time to enjoy the experience before sleeping was a bit of a downside.
The highlight for me was definitely the special lounge with its surprisingly good ice cream - a perfect way to relax during the journey. While it was a nice experience, I would only recommend it to ferry enthusiasts or those looking for a unique overnight journey.
Exploring Kyushu
How to Rent a Car and Drive in Japan
To rent a car in Japan, you’ll need both your regular driver’s license and an international driver’s license. The international license must be obtained through AAA, which now uses the GovWorks website for processing. Previously, I had to visit the AAA office in person, but this time I was able to complete everything online. The process was surprisingly smooth - the website synced with my phone for document uploads and featured real-time photo capture of my driver’s license. The modern interface and digital verification made the whole process much faster than in previous years.
We booked our rental car through Rakuten, and the process was straightforward. The daily rate was reasonable, and they don’t upcharge for insurance. We paid 38,280 yen (about $250) for our rental period. The pickup and drop-off process was quick and efficient - a stark contrast to experiences I’ve had in other countries like Mexico, where I’ve waited an hour just to get the car. The Japanese customer service culture made the whole experience hassle-free.
Driving in Japan might seem intimidating at first, but if you’re comfortable driving in US cities, you’ll adapt quickly. The main difference is driving on the left side, which you can get used to within an hour or so. The line markings are more extensive than in the US, which can be confusing initially. However, the overall driving experience is much safer - the roads are better maintained, and dedicated turn lanes eliminate intersection confusion. While Japan has some narrow roads alongside its excellent highways, the added safety of Japanese roads and driving culture balances out the challenges of driving in a new country.
Kyushu Road Trip Experience
After renting the car, we set out to explore Kyushu, driving from Beppu to Kumamoto over three days. While we initially planned to visit Beppu, Yufuin, Kurokawa Onsen, and Kumamoto, we adjusted our itinerary to spend one night in Yufuin and two nights in Kumamoto. This turned out to be the perfect amount of time for this route.
The drive through Kyushu was fucking amazing. The mountain roads curve constantly, never straight for more than 30 seconds. We hit sections where pavement turned to gravel, the road narrowed to barely a car width, and trees pressed in from both sides. My partner was pretty nervous, but I was having the time of my life. Every few kilometers we’d pop out at a viewpoint overlooking a valley or a gorge cutting through the mountains. We made several stops along the way, including the Beppu cable car, some natural gorges, and the Mount Aso Observatory.
Figuring out how to navigate with GPS was a bit of a challenge. We tried to hook up my phone to use Android Auto on the car, but it was disabled in the rental car for some reason. So we ended up using Google Maps directly on my phone and we started trying out the car’s built-in GPS simultaneously. There were some differences in the routes they suggested, and we found that the local GPS system was generally more reliable - likely because it’s specifically designed for Japanese roads and conditions.
The main challenge came when trying to input destinations into the car’s GPS. While the audio and menu items were in English, everything else was in Japanese when it came to entering locations and addresses. This made it time-consuming to enter destinations, and sometimes the system wouldn’t recognize place names even when entered in hiragana.
Then we discovered Japan’s MapCode system—a simple number you look up online beforehand and key in instead of an address. Once we switched to MapCodes, setting our route became almost effortless, and within a few days we found the in‑car GPS with MapCodes more reliable than Google Maps for local driving.
Japan’s MapCode system divides the country into zones, blocks and units, producing a unique 7–10 digit code (with an optional “xx” suffix for extra precision) that corresponds to any spot, even those without a formal address. It’s built into every major car‑nav brand and accepted by rental agencies nationwide, so you just enter the number and go. You can look up codes on the “Drive! NIPPON” site or app, via the bilingual web tools at japanmapcode.com or mapcodejapan.com.
Yufuin: Mountain Town with Hot Springs
Yufuin became one of the highlights of our trip, offering a perfect balance between accessibility and authentic Japanese charm. The picturesque town, surrounded by mountains, was particularly beautiful during sakura season, with fewer crowds than major tourist destinations like Kyoto.
We explored Yufuin Floral Village (Yufuin no Mori) and wandered through charming local shops and boutiques, taking in the beautiful natural scenery and relaxed, small-town atmosphere. What made it special for us was how it offered a more authentic experience than heavily touristed areas while maintaining its charm despite being popular. The perfect balance of accessibility and local character made it a great alternative to more crowded destinations.
Yufuin Santoukan
Our stay at Yufuin Santoukan was a memorable experience with both positive aspects and important considerations. The centrally located property in Yufuin offered convenient parking right next to it, making it perfect for our driving itinerary.
The driving experience in Yufuin presented some challenges - the streets were narrow and crowded, with pedestrians often ignoring cars. This made navigation through tight spaces potentially stressful, especially for those new to driving in Japan. While it was a fun challenge for us as experienced drivers, it could be stressful for others.
The accommodation itself offered a traditional ryokan experience with a beautiful, well-maintained property and comfortable common areas. The authentic Japanese atmosphere was exactly what we were looking for. However, the sleeping arrangements using traditional futons on the floor required some adjustment. While it was part of the authentic experience, it might not be ideal if you’re already tired from travel, as western beds might have provided better rest.
The drive through Kyushu, with Yufuin as a highlight, was one of the most rewarding parts of our trip. The combination of beautiful scenery, charming towns, and excellent driving conditions made it an unforgettable experience.
Kumamoto Experience
While we didn’t get to explore as much as we wanted due to severe allergies, Kumamoto proved to be a great place to relax. The city’s relaxed atmosphere and the comfort of the Dormi Inn made it a worthwhile stop on our journey.
Spring in Kyushu was particularly challenging for us with allergies. The hay fever was severe and persisted throughout the rest of our trip and even after returning home. Driving through forests often triggered strong allergic reactions, which limited some of our planned activities.
Despite these challenges, Kumamoto served as a perfect location to take a break from the intensity of a Japan trip, allowing us to rest and recover before continuing our journey.
Dormi Inn Kumamoto
Our stay at the Dormi Inn in Kumamoto was a highlight of the trip. The rooms were larger compared to typical APA hotels, comfortable and well-designed, making it our new preferred hotel chain for future trips.
The amenities were impressive, including a top-floor onsen (public bath) and ofuro (private bath), complimentary ice cream and probiotic drinks, and free midnight ramen service. The on-site parking featured an advanced automated parking system with a mechanical platform that automatically placed our car in the correct spot, eliminating the need to navigate tight parking spaces ourselves.
The combination of spacious rooms, excellent amenities, and the innovative parking system made our stay at Dormi Inn Kumamoto particularly enjoyable and memorable.
Returning to Tokyo
After our time in Kyushu, it was time to head back to Tokyo. The journey from Kumamoto to Tokyo was surprisingly straightforward, thanks to Japan’s efficient transportation system.
Getting from Kumamoto to Tokyo
Our journey back to Tokyo from Kumamoto was surprisingly straightforward, thanks to the convenient bus service from Sakura Machi. The bus terminal was located in a shopping plaza near Dormi Inn, with a large, well-organized terminal at the bottom of the complex.
The bus service to Kumamoto Airport was efficient, with buses departing every 10 minutes in the morning. No reservations were required, but we purchased tickets in advance for peace of mind. The journey took about 54 minutes, and the frequent service ensured we got to the airport on time.
We made sure to give ourselves enough time for the journey and bought our tickets the day before to be extra prepared. The frequent service meant we didn’t have to worry about missing a bus, which was perfect since we were staying near Dormi Inn.
This convenient bus service made our transfer from Kumamoto to the airport stress-free and efficient, allowing us to focus on the next leg of our journey to Tokyo.
Shiba Park Hotel (Tokyo)
The Shiba Park Hotel in Tokyo was another excellent accommodation choice for us, particularly as light travelers. The rooms were spacious (uncommon in Tokyo) and featured in-room laundry facilities, with excellent service throughout our stay.
The location had its pros and cons. On the positive side, it was adjacent to Tokyo Tower, had easy Uber access, and was well-connected to public transportation with Matsucho and Daimon stations nearby. However, the immediate surroundings were limited, requiring us to take trains to reach most attractions, and there was no direct view of Tokyo Tower from the rooms.
We chose it specifically because it was perfect for light travelers who needed laundry facilities and wanted to be near Tokyo Tower. While the area might not have been bustling with activities, the hotel’s comfort, amenities, and proximity to Tokyo Tower made it a worthwhile choice for our stay.
Uber in Tokyo: A New Reliable Option
While Tokyo’s subway system is excellent, we found ourselves using Uber more frequently on this trip. The service has become more reliable than in previous years, with high-quality, comfortable cars that were perfect for when we were tired or when it was raining. It became a great alternative to navigating complex subway stations, especially when carrying luggage.
The cost was more expensive than public transportation but comparable or possibly cheaper than Boston prices. We found it worth the cost when considering the time saved, comfort level, reduced walking with luggage, and avoiding crowded trains.
We particularly appreciated Uber for airport transfers (especially with luggage), after long days of walking, during bad weather, when we were tired of navigating stations, and when we needed to get somewhere quickly. For example, our Uber from Shiba Park Hotel to Haneda Airport cost around 7,000 yen (approximately $50) but was worth every yen. It saved us from navigating the monorail with luggage and significantly reduced our walking time.
Haneda Airport Experience
Based on our numerous visits to both Haneda and Narita airports, we’ve learned a few things about the airport experience. We found it better to purchase sandwiches, onigiri, or other snacks at a convenience store before arriving, as the airport stores get extremely crowded and the selection is limited with higher prices.
We tried the Priority Pass Lounge in Terminal 3 (Sky Lounge), which offered Japanese-style food options like Japanese curry, onigiri, and pork sandwiches, providing a different dining experience from typical airport food. However, there were often long lines (30+ minute wait), and it could get uncomfortably hot, especially during summer. Overall, our experience was just “okay” - while it was nice to have access through Priority Pass, the experience wasn’t significantly better than staying outside the lounge.
The key takeaway from our experience is that planning ahead for food purchases and being prepared for crowds, especially during peak travel times, makes the airport experience much smoother.
Conclusion
I hope this detailed account of our trip gives you a good sense of what traveling in Japan is like, whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned traveler. I keep going back to Japan because things work the way they’re supposed to. It’s a country that operates at an incredibly high standard of living, where discipline and responsibility towards others are deeply ingrained in the culture. This manifests in everything from the immaculate cleanliness to the dedication of workers, the efficiency of train stations, and the speed of public works. Trains leave on time. Bathrooms are clean. The guy at 7-Eleven bags your stuff like he actually cares. While Japanese society has its own unique challenges, the overall experience of visiting is consistently rewarding.
What I love most about Japan is that there’s always something new to discover. It’s impossible to see everything in one lifetime. The country offers an endless variety of experiences, from bustling cities to serene countryside, each with its own distinct character.
I understand that Japan can seem intimidating, especially for those coming from Western countries. The language barrier and cultural differences can feel overwhelming at first. However, Japan has become increasingly accessible in recent years. With the help of AI tools for language translation and more English support throughout the country, it’s never been easier to navigate. Japan gets easier every year with more English signs and better translation tools.
If you’re thinking about going, go. Every visit expands your horizons and offers new perspectives. You’ll figure it out.